We wanted to celebrate with a vacation for Bryan’s birthday. A couple weeks before our reserved time off, we scanned the flight loads to see what places had the best chance of business class. We decided to fly to Paris. The flight there looked promising for business, and it looked doable to return to the States. Having been to London for our most recent big trip, we wanted something more quaint. Paris in the summer is the opposite of that. Instead, Bryan decided on visiting Dijon, France. I was up for anything. We also had in the back of our mind that we could always get back to Paris if we wanted to return at a later date. 

Visiting Dijon: the Journey

The journey was not without hiccups. Leaving the airport, we had to deplane due to the weather. Our flight was delayed, and Bryan had to help board the plane when given the all-clear to depart. Luckily, we had barely enough time to walk to our gate when we landed. We also procured luxurious business-class seats. I had purchased Dunkin gift cards for the flight crew, as they do so much on a long-haul flight. I recommend this as a standby passenger! They seemed to like them. 

Business Class

We were treated to a lovely dinner, beginning with a heated towel, warm nuts, and a beverage. Then we were served a fabulous chicken appetizer, salad, and warm bread. We chose the sea bass for our entrées and finished the meal with ice cream sundaes. We both tried to sleep on the plane to avoid jet lag. In the morning, we received breakfast, which included a frittata, fruit, and bread. 

Finding the Train

Having enjoyed the flight, we deplaned and had to figure out our next steps. We found our way to the train and made sure, so we thought, to have found the platform before completing our ticket purchase. Unfortunately, we were on the wrong platform. We asked a train employee minutes before our ticket time, who told us to run as he pointed across the station. We took off and then had to find our train cars (our tickets were not together) while not speaking more than five words of French. Frantically asking and pointing at the mobile tickets resulted in us finding our separate train cars just as the doors closed. We had made it!

The Train

I found my seat next to a French family of three, feeling like a third wheel. I caught my breath and prepared for the ride, as I noticed I would be going backwards, which I was hoping to avoid. We sped off, enjoying picturesque views as we rolled past the French countryside. We whisked past sunflower fields in full bloom, rolling hills, farmlands, and old structures and buildings. Unfortunately, we came to a stop for some electrical repairs for almost an hour, causing us to miss our train connection. I used Google Translate for the train conductor’s announcements and to ask the gentleman next to me how we would get a refund for the train connection we would be missing. The locals had been overall very helpful to us. We would have had numerous other issues if they had not helped us along the journey. 

Checking in

We connected in Lyon to our final train. After many hours of travel, we finally arrived at our destination! We exited the Gare de Dijon (train station) and moved to find our hotel, the Oceania Le Jura Dijon, right next to the station. Upon arrival, we found that the third-party site where we had booked, and prepaid, for our room had not communicated our reservation to the hotel. The front desk staff was helpful and treated us to a glass of wine and some crackers while they worked to resolve our reservation. We ended up getting an upgrade! Our room had beautiful tall ceilings, a separate toilet room, and a spa-like shower with a waterfall head and sprayer. The room overlooked a small courtyard that the hotel rooms surrounded. Hungry, we set out for dinner.

Visiting Dijon: Dinner

On the way to dinner, we took in the sights and admired the old medieval/renaissance architecture in the golden hour lighting. Unintentionally, we saw many of the things we were saving for the next day, but this was good because there was a lot to see. We chose a restaurant with outdoor bistro tables in the Square des Ducs that served a multi-course French meal. We enjoyed a leisurely meal that began with escargot. The escargot was delicious! The next course was beef bourguignon. It was beef stewed in a gravy with vegetables and mashed potatoes. Finally, we enjoyed dessert. It was a decadent panna cotta, one of my favorite desserts, as my husband makes it occasionally. It was a great beginning to visiting Dijon!

One thing we liked about the dining culture in Dijon was the relaxed pace. We spent around two and a half hours enjoying the meal and the beautiful square we were dining in. Our stomachs had a moment to settle between each course. No one rushed us with the check, we learned you have to ask for the waiter to bring it. We liked having a moment to enjoy the present and partake in conversation. Tired and satisfied, we returned to the hotel, stopping at the Jardin Darcy on the way.

Visiting Dijon: The Owl Trail

First thing in the morning, we set out to explore the Owl Trail. Scattered around Dijon, there are owl markers near prominent landmarks in the city. One stop is an owl on the side of St. Paul that visitors touch with their left hand for good luck. We downloaded an app, Le Parcours de la Chouette, that listed all of the stops on the trail with some relevant information and a map. In French fashion, it is not intended as a fast-paced scavenger hunt. Instead, it is meant to be a leisurely adventure, with side stops and meandering off-route. Our first stop off the path was for breakfast. We stopped at Paul’s, a cafe offering pastries and bread. We ordered croissants and espressos and sat down to enjoy our breakfast. The croissants were flaky and delicious. 

Sights While Visiting Dijon

Along the Owl Trail, we saw many architectural delights. The Porte Guillaume, an 18th-century arch, welcomed visitors into the city and was one of the stops on the trail. We thought it was unique that the city was so walking friendly. Entire streets were devoted to pedestrians. We rarely saw a car, and the cars we did see were electric. There were electric trains as well. In the morning, we came upon the Covered Market. It was sprawling, even in the middle of the week. There were displays of food and goods, both in and surrounding the market far as you could see.

We got to sample a few culinary delights while visiting the Dijon market, and found some souvenirs. I chose a ceramic owl, and we got some herbed salt, gingerbread, a baguette, and mustard. (It is Dijon after all) The market took us to the Place Francois Rude, a square with sculptures and timber buildings. We continued to see Notre Dame, where the owl resided. Notre Dame was adorned with gargoyles and was an impressive example of 13th-century architecture.